Pizza is pizza, right?
Not necessarily, at least not at Cane Rosso, one of the early entries into The Star at Frisco.
This Texas favorite has transplanted its cool Deep Ellum pizza culture to the Jerry Jones complex, right across the street from the Ford Center. The midday temperature far exceeded the tolerance of our group of three for the outdoor patio, but the air-conditioned comfort delicately blended with wafts of garlic from the Dallas Cowboys decorated brick oven that prominently sets the tone for gobbling a few new creations.
Our party was welcomed and seated without a wait. Don’t plan on immediate access to continue once Cowboys Training Camp and the high school football season begin, though. We expect that demand will outpace seats, making the wait list a challenge in the future. Get in the habit of making a reservation here. You’ll be glad you did.
Image Source Cane Rosso
Our very hip waiter, Milton, promptly took our drink orders. Cane Rosso offers a full bar, so the lady at our table ordered a pinot grigio appropriate to the early afternoon dining hour, while my other companion and I enjoyed a bottled root beer and an iced tea, respectively.
One of the interesting quirks of The Star in Frisco is that all of the restaurants are required to offer Pepsi brand beverages, so you won’t find Coke products coming out of any taps. Some of the restaurants have chosen to pour specialty soft drinks from bottles, though. The St. Arnold’s Root Beer offered at Cane Rosso is a premium product that was served in a frosted glass. Before the correct drink reached the table, though, a Dr Pepper was delivered. The mistake was rectified quickly and there was no charge for the bottled replacement. We gave high marks for that decision which was seemingly at the discretion of the waiter. It set a tone that said, “We’re serious about making the experience right.”
Artisan pizzas dominate the menu and we were in the mood to try them all. While some menu items are offered in every location, the Cane Rosso at The Star is unique, with a few items created exclusively for the eatery’s affiliation with the NFL team across the way. That made our job of limiting ourselves to only three pizzas a difficult one, so we decided to start with an appetizer to allow us time to consider the possibilities.
We chose a creamy spinach and artichoke dip that is described as being presented in a bread bowl. It isn’t. Instead, we enjoyed a fabulous nectar, spread across a luscious napoleon crust that is flat, not bowl-shaped, piping hot from the oven. Our group tore into the edges and spooned or dipped the bread into the goodness in front of us. This starter did not disappoint. Rich, garlicky, buttery goodness tickled our taste buds in each bite.
Everyone at the table agreed that we would have enjoyed this dish even more had the artichoke flavor come through in a more meaningful way, but the overall decision was primo. Reliably enough, the dish is named for former Cowboy coach, Jimmy Johnson.
Something green seemed a good idea. The Caesar salad was fairly standard but the white anchovies that came with the leafy plate were engaging and a nice touch on the palate.
Finally it was time to get down to business! Everyone ordered a favorite pizza as our entrées.
The signature Cane Rosso pizza for the The Star location is shaped like, you guessed it, a star. One might wonder how to eat such a diabolical pizza design, but Milton was quick to point out that the san marzano tomato sauce, pepperoni, housemade mozzarella and other ingredients are best eaten by cutting the pizza toward the center from its pointy corners of the star, folding the contents into the point . The outcome was like the end of a calzone or a hot pocket. Regardless of how it is eaten, our guest devoured the entire creation with nary a crumb left behind.
Even if one chooses to skip the star design, the thin, wood-fired crust isn’t an exclusive feature of just one pizza, so the pie-loving gal at our table ordered up the “Emma,” a traditionally-shaped round concoction of sausage, san marzanos and housemade mozzarella. Our companion is a mushroom fanatic, so she ordered those as an extra topping for good measure. Like the pizza previously mentioned, this 14” knife and fork wonder was hot and crispy on the outer edges and wonderfully chewy on the inside, just like they are in Napoli, Italy pizzerias. Our friend rarely finishes a meal and this one beat her, too, as she took home two slices, even after sharing one slice with each of us.
We all agreed that the Emma’s sausage was savory without being too spicy, and was perfectly complemented by the sauce. The mozzarella was evident but not overwhelming. The mushrooms were appropriately earthy, resulting in a fulfilling meal.
Finally, I tried the Paulie Gee. This was Milton’s suggestion because I made the fortuitous mistake of mentioning to him that I enjoy spicy food now and again.
The Paulie Gee is topped with hot soppressata (an Italian dry salami from the Tuscany region), caramelized onions, calabrian chiles, san marzanos and mozzarella of course. For good measure, we added candied jalapenos and an aggressively spicy pepperoni that is often found on European pizzas.
Before I knew it, one-a hotta pizza was placed before me!
The pure sizzle of this pie gives this entrée a classic taste not normally found in local pizza joints. The expected sublime sourness of the soppressata never materialized. I surmise that it was offset by the sweetness of the onions and the peppery slight of hand contributed by the calabrian chiles. But the piece de resistance was the inclusion of the candied jalapenos. These little titans introduce pepper lovers to an addiction that one must satisfy over and over.
Once I began my First Class trip on the flavor plane, there was no turning back. Even in light of having had my share of the appetizer and salad, and with the tiny voice of my cardiologist condemning me for my gluttony, I relished slice after slice until not a bite remained.
Yes, I paid the price later for all that incomparable hotness. It was worth it. In fact, I may reserve my spot for this weekend.
None of us had a bit of room for the dessert pizzas that tempted us. This fact demonstrates that a plan of attack is a necessity when visiting Cane Rosso. Otherwise, split up your pizza cravings on a shared pizza pizza. The portion sizes will tame most diners.
Cane Rosso also offers a wide selection of sandwiches and pastas, but we will leave those for you to review in the “Real People Review” section of Frisco Eats.
When the check arrived, the meal was a bit above your average pizza place pricing at $105, including a 20% tip. Without question, Milton’s level of service and menu suggestions were worth every penny.
Depending on your pocketbook, Cane Rosso may or may not be the place for a family meal after a high school football game, but it certainly is a wise date night choice, and it’s impossible to beat the convenience to the Ford Center plaza and the Omni Frisco.
If Cane Rosso is a good example of the kinds of restaurants that we can expect at The Star, Frisco is in for some treats as new restaurateurs open their doors over the next several weeks.
Frisco at The Star
3685 The Star Blvd.
Suite 200
Frisco, TX 75034*
214.430.5225